In the heart of the Middle Sepik, you’ll witness one of Papua New Guinea’s most impressive rituals: the initiation ceremony of the Iatmul crocodile-men.
In the cool half-light of the spirit house, illuminated by a few rays of light and the smoke of the fires, the elders prepare the young initiates. Their low chants, the blowing of flutes and the muffled beat of wooden drums accompany each stage of the ritual.
Early in the morning, the “Great Crocodile Spirit eats the initiates”: the scars will reproduce the scales of the mythical crocodile, master of the Sepik River. The pain is faced in silence, under the watchful gaze of elders, men and invoked spirits. River clay, ashes and oils are then applied to the wounds to shape the future scarifications, which will be worn as a sacred adornment for the rest of their lives.
As a visitor, you witness this rare and powerful ceremony from the edge of the spirit house, to the rhythm of songs, dances and mythical tales. It’s a moment of passage and community pride, offering you a unique immersion in the spiritual world of the Sepik River. You’ll benefit from Marc Dozier’s knowledge of Papua and his advice as a professional photographer and film-maker.
You’ll then continue your journey into the Highlands, to the village of Mundiya Kepanga, famous Papuan chief and ardent defender of his country’s forests. In the heart of a landscape of misty mountains, gardens and ancient forests, you’ll discover the daily life of its community and the contemporary issues involved in protecting this unique natural heritage.
This trip will also be a privileged immersion in Huli culture: multicolored feather ornaments, faces painted in yellow and red ochre, spectacular headdresses, mythological tales and warrior traditions. Through encounters, dances and time spent sharing with the locals, you’ll get close to the soul of the Papuan Highlands, between sacred nature and living cultural heritage.
| Starting point | Port Moresby – International Airport |
| Physical level | Moderate – Forest walks to be expected |
| Accommodation | Comfortable hotels (Wewak, Mt Hagen, Port Moresby) + Authentic guesthouses (Sepik, Tari) |
| Dates | September 21 (just after the Goroka Show) to October 4 |
| Price includes | Accommodation in double room All meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) + water Accompaniment by Marc Dozier from Port Moresby to Port Moresby. All transfers by private vehicle, pirogue or bus 1 domestic flight PNG Air (Wewak-Hagen) Tribal permissions to attend secret ceremonies All ceremonies and sing-sings described. |
| Price does not include | International flights 2 domestic flights Air Niugini to be booked: – Sept 21: POM-WWK – Oct 2: TIZ-POM Papua visa Personal tips Alcoholic beverages and soft drinks Personal expenses |
Accommodation : Wewak Boutique Hotel – Deluxe Room – Meals : P.D.D. – Flight : 1h30
Depart in the morning for a four
hour drive to Pagwi on the Sepik River. Here, you board a motorized pirogue and begin your two-hour journey downstream to the village of Kanganamun. This is the heart of the Middle Sepik and the most culturally interesting area of the river.
We’re in the middle of Yatmul crocodile-man territory. During initiation rites of passage, they are ritually scarified to resemble crocodiles. The village’s immense House of the Spirits is a veritable cathedral dedicated to local divinities and the primitive arts.
In the nearby village of Yenchen, we’ll be attending the Yatmoul initiation ceremony starting tomorrow.
Accommodation: Sepik Guesthouse – Meals: P.D.D. – Transfer: 4h30 by bus + 2h by pirogue
At
today, you leave the main Sepik River to reach the immense Chambri Lakes. In the village of Kirimbit, you’ll discover a spirit house where politics and village affairs are discussed as they have been for generations, and where sacred art is still alive.
From here, you continue by pirogue to the village of Aibom, the only place in the region where pottery is made and where, to this day, all the inhabitants of the Sepik come to find the utensils they need to cook their sago.
Finally, you’ll make your way to the village of Yenchen, for a first visit to the site where the initiation will begin that evening.
At the end of the day, the future initiates are invited to join the House of the Spirits, where the “singsing pukpuk”, the dance of the crocodile welcoming the young men, begins.
Accommodation: Sepik Guesthouse – Meals: P.D.D. – Transfer : 3h by pirogue
Early in the morning, the men are scarified, and after this ordeal, the elders and their uncles take care of them, following ancestral rituals.
We leave when the initiates are allowed to rest.
You’ll visit the village of Palembe, where some of the Sepik’s finest artifacts are made. Then, we’ll accompany the village women as they fish and cook sago. Fish and sago are staple foods here.
Accommodation: Sepik Guesthouse – Meals: P.D.D.
Back to Pagwi,
where we head for the village of Apangai, to visit a splendid Abelam spirit house. We have lunch here, before returning to Wewak and settling back in at the Boutique Hotel.
Accommodation: Boutique Hotel – Meals : P.D.D.
Morning rest, then transfer to the airport, where we fly to Mount Hagen, the capital of the Highlands. Then a 2-hour drive to the village of Kagai, in the mountainous province of Simbu, to reach a beautiful guesthouse with a splendid view over the narrow valley of the Simbu River.
Accommodation: Guesthouse in Kagai – Meals: P.D.D.
This morning, village women come to present their finery to you, and a moment of exchange awaits as they adorn themselves and dance in front of you.
After lunch, you leave this beautiful place for the village of Mindima, where you will attend a traditional play that tells an ancient legend.
From here, you will reach the Kimdika conservation area for a jungle walk.
Finally, in the afternoon, you reach Hagen and your hotel.
Accommodation: McRoyal Hotel – Meals: P.D.D.
Early in the morning, you leave the city to enjoy a wonderful day of cultural exchange in a small village. In a picturesque village setting, you’ll be welcomed and introduced to the members of the village. Discover the details of their fascinating ornaments and body decorations. Then explore their village and surroundings.
After lunch, you’ll visit the Kumul Lodge at 2700 meters (9000 feet) above sea level for birdwatching. This is an incredibly scenic drive through the mountains where you’ll see the farming practices of the mountain people as you travel the wide road to the lodge.
Kumul Lodge is a great place to watch birds of paradise, which are regulars at the lodge’s feeders, offering fantastic photo opportunities. Other regulars at the feeders include Brehm’s tiger parrot, smoked honeyeater, Belford’s honeyeater and island thrush. The Chestnut Wood-Rail is sometimes seen under the feeder, while the Great Crested Woodpecker, White-winged Robin and a host of other birds are often spotted at nearby sites.
You spend the night in this charming place.
Accommodation: Kumul Lodge – Meals: P.D.D.
You’ll then continue your journey into the Highlands, to the village of Mundiya Kepanga, a famous Papuan chief and ardent defender of his country’s forests. In the heart of a landscape of misty mountains, terraced gardens and ancient forests, you’ll discover the daily life of his community and the contemporary issues involved in protecting this unique natural heritage.
Your stay will also be a privileged immersion in Huli culture: multicolored feather ornaments, faces painted in yellow and red ochre, spectacular headdresses, mythological tales and warrior traditions. Through encounters, dances and time spent sharing with the locals, you’ll get close to the soul of the Papuan Highlands, between sacred nature and living cultural heritage.
Accommodation: Village Guesthouse – Meals: P.D.D.
In comp
agnie de Mundiya, you’ll discover the Huli way of life, starting with the “bachelors boys” who grow their hair until they can cut it into a wig in a complicated initiation process. Then you’ll discover all the secrets of Huli body adornment as some men go through the whole process of decorating themselves in front of you. You’ll learn more about the “Houseman system”, in which the men sleep together away from their wives and children, and about the complex society of these men with their reputation as fierce warriors.
Accommodation: Village Guesthouse – Meals: P.D.D.
Second full day in Mundiya’s company. You discover a little more about the Huli way of life, and venture with him into the forests and landscapes of the Huli world.
You share Mundiya’s passion for nature.
Accommodation: Village Guesthouse – Meals: P.D.D.
You’ll reach Tari airport in the morning and we’ll board our flight to Port Moresby.
The afternoon is free for you to do some sightseeing or relax.
Accommodation: Sanctuary Hotel – Meals: P.D.D
Early morning departure for the country’s only national park, Varirata. Here, in addition to magnificent landscapes and beautiful walks, you’ll be able to observe magnificent birds of paradise.
Accommodation: Sanctuary Hotel – Meals: P.D.D.
Meals : Breakfast
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